Marco De Vincenzo’s Sicilian Roots Are Part Of His Success
Lorenzo Sabatini,
An intellectual with a pop soul. Humanity and kindness, the need for creating a family and also to come back to his Sicily, the magic Island in the South of Italy, are the main goals of one of the most talented new generation’s designers: Marco De Vincenzo.
A version of this exclusive interview first appeared in the pages of the 15th issue of ODDA Magazine.
Milan Fashion Week – Fall/Winter 2018 @marcodevincenzo
You are one of the most talented new generation’s designers: what do you still want to achieve in the near future?
Actually, when you create a label starting from zero/scratch as I did 7 years ago, well, starting from that moment I spent lot of my energies on this project. My goals revolved around this game. From that moment on, my life has been moving towards this. My future projects revolve around its promotion, its growth, its protection as if it was a child. With regards to other projects, I try to imagine that I am leading a life that I like. Probably moving to Milan will be my next step. I am Sicilian adopted by Rome. I like it more and more. I would be ready for a transfer to another city. After 20 years in Rome.
What is an underestimated sense?
In my opinion, it could be that there are no underestimated ones. But it could be the sense of smell. Nowadays, we are accustomed in a moment when sight is abused, while the perfumes awaken memories. Something that should be preserved and that could go more in crisis is the link between perfumes and events of our life. We are not used to this anymore. I recently smelled someone who was wearing the scent of the iconic perfume Le Male, by Jean Paul Gaultier, and I had totally forgotten it. That reminded me of the time when I first arrived from Sicily to Rome. It also happens with food. the smell must be protected.
Marco de Vincenzo latest Instagram post
How has your collaborative relationship with Silvia Venturini Fendi affected your vision?
If there is a creative universe that shaped me when I was twenty, it was that of Fendi. Above all, with Silvia. I was a curious boy from another kind of
culture, from a land where you had to earn certain things. When I met her and her family, I absorbed their creativity, their taste, even for furniture, how they interpreted art and transformed it into clothing. I am grateful. All that she would say was a new thing for me. For example, when talking about some artistic currents or watching her mixing colors, it was a surprise for me. The audacity of the Fendi family is something that I absorbed and I worked hard to make mine, and in part I probably succeeded. A role model that can shape you is probably rather necessary. I had a great school and in my case it was fundamental. Thanks to Silvia and Fendi for giving me everything that I am today, without knowing it. After all, we were working and I was absorbing.
Which thinker has shaped your personality in your adolescence?
One type of books that most influenced me during this period was poetry. Those who knew this, used to give me poetry books. The Odes, by Pablo Neruda, dedicated to objects in particular. It amazed me how words could describe how things were, for example citrus fruits. I was amazed by the per- fect linguistic exercise. The most substantial book I took on trips, anywhere, and which was always on the bedside table of my first Roman house, was Emily Dickinson’s Poems. I found in her a way to perceive the world, the seasons, very similar to mine. A world similar to the one I wanted to have. It’s a book I’m very fond of. A gift from a friend. I was 16 years old. My oracle: I always consulted it when I was looking for answers and I always find new ideas.
“I CANNOT LIVE WITHOUT THE SEA. I KNOW THAT I NEED THAT KIND OF LANDSCAPE. I DO NOT SPEND TOO MUCH TIME BETWEEN ONE VISIT TO THE SOUTH AND ANOTHER” – MARCO DE VINCENZO
If you could dress up anyone from the past, who would it be and why?
I must say that I am very fascinated by a story I recently read. I had heard of the Florio family, which is a fundamental family of industrialists who have transformed Sicily in a mythical place and a cultural center, where the whole world spent their holidays. I read their biography: the figure of Franca Florio, muse of writers, just think that Gabriele D’Annunzio went crazy for her, a beautiful story. There is also a famous portrait of Giovanni Boldini dedicated to Franca. I would like to dress her. She had everything of the woman of today: she was emancipated, in love with the world, the jet set, the culture and the worldliness. Perfect to me.
Beyonce In Marco de Vincenzo
And then, if you could dress up only one person, who would it be and why?
Now, this is a difficult question. The opportunities to dress some of my myths have already been there and there will be others. Today everything is much faster, I could not give a name. If I like an actress or a singer, I try to contact her as it was in the case of Beyoncé and Taylor Swift. Today you can try: there are no figures that I find unapproachable. I have happened to dress Beyoncé several times. This broke the magic. I keep an eye on the girls of the new generation, the new faces. I try to contact them, to know them, to do scouting, rather than the icons, I like the most to discover new faces. It is hard to get there first but, when it happens, it is very nice. It happened to me recently with an Italian actress, who has all the cards to have a formidable career. She’s at the beginning, we liked each other, we did things together. We can make something good for ourselves helping each other. Me for her image and her to promote my brand.
If you weren’t a designer, is there any other job you would have loved to do?
Yes, I would have worked in the animation world. To design a cartoon. Being a designer is still a manual job, despite modern technology. I love drawing: in that way I would have been satisfied.
Griffe Bag – Marco de Vincenzo Spring/Summer 2018
Thinking about your childhood, what comes to your mind?
Sicily, summer. It is a season that I always imagine, if I close my eyes, by the sea from May to September: the loss of the sense of time. Until I was six- teen, I had summers like this. They were wonderful seasons, I always picture myself there. If I think of my childhood, I think of the sea and the summer. My roots call me. My collection, a little bit misunderstood by everyone, comes to my mind. I collected sacred images. “Santini”, in Italian. When I saw an uncle, a cousin, that was an opportunity to look at my bizarre collection, to draw those images, I was really fond of sacred art. I still keep these collections; they were my favorite game. They were my stickers. I do not know what remained of this obsession of mine, but everyone knew it. It was my first contact with fashion. The vestments of the clothes, the drapery, the colors, were my first approach to the observation of clothing.
Is there anything you can’t stand in other people?
I cannot bear the lack of enthusiasm, detached attitude to things, very young people who have the apathy on them, a sense of lack. It often hap- pens to me to meet people less hungry for life than me and I have never tolerated this. I have difficulty interacting and encouraging them because I lose interest too. I love those who love what they do.
Marco de Vincenzo – Pop Up Store in Milan
What is your biggest fear? And dream?
A fear would be finding myself old with too many regrets, looking at my life, as many say it happens, and thinking about what I did and I should not have done. All of this scares me, my idea of serenity in aging is when you know you gave your best.
Many people I talk to have many regrets and I’m terrified about this too. I dream of having a family with children, a dream close enough to reach. When I think about my life, that is my dream. I do not question my creativity. I was born like this; it is the only thing that cannot take away from me. It feeds itself. It does not scare me. Everything that needs to be built becomes a dream. I’d like to think about raising a family.
Is there anything or anyone you can’t really live without?
I cannot live without the sea. I know that I need that kind of landscape. I do not spend too much time between one visit to the south and another. I need the south. Although I love Milan and the cities where I live, I cannot do without that. I reconcile myself when I’m in my territory. They are places with less stimulation, but I like to come back because I’m not afraid since they are the places I know the best. I could not give up my habitat.
What is your last thought before going to sleep?
A work thing. A plan for the next day if something has not been concluded. Before closing my eyes, I think about work. If it is an idea, I make a sketch or I write something on my phone. It happens to me often. Before disconnecting, you can think of things for the day after. It is a time to let go. Like dreams. You are working. When you are about to fall asleep, it is a fertile and productive moment.
Who do you consider an inspiration for yourself and your work?
I may be obvious, but I am a Prada addicted.
Nobody is like Miuccia Prada in these years. As a child, when I saw what she was doing, the adrenaline was unleashed, which triggers Prada when she is about to show her new collection, anyone else. It is a galvanizing thing that has represented something different from me and, therefore, even more fascinating: I was crazy about Versace and Valentino. Then, flipping through the first magazines, I noticed Prada, she intrigued me and I understood that it was different from what I knew and no one else communicated like her. I am a huge fan. One day I’ll tell her. Maybe I’ll write her a letter (smile).
Backstage at Marco De Vincenzo RTW Spring 2018
Have you ever thought about collaborating in other fields?
They inspire me. Some with artists are nurturing. I do it anytime as soon as I can. During Pitti with the staging done in a theater with the artist Patrizio Travagli. It was amazing. When you find similar languages to yours in other areas, you understand how we are connected. Sometimes, you just feel alone. Other times, you find people who have eyes similar to yours. Tom Humberstone, illustrator, comes to my mind: I found his print of clapping hands marvelous. He was so happy when I asked him to use it to make some clothes for my SS’18 collection. These things are beautiful, these are some of the things that you do not have to achieve, so why not take them from others? I often take screenshots of artists who, as soon as I have the chance, I will contact to create something.
How do you describe the upcoming Marco De Vincenzo’s woman in four adjectives?
Sexy. I want this at this moment, that the woman goes back to showing her strength even with her body, I feel this energy in the air, which I think could come back. Minimalist. Because this, in my feelings, I want cleanliness, minimal in my way. Decorative, I will always lead this battle from where my spark was born. Casual. In my case, I do not believe that the sexy contemporary can go through a difficult aesthetic.
Marco de Vincenzo Pre Fall Autumn 2018
You love colors: what about total black?
It’s a thing that, strangely enough, I like very much because I find that there are those who know how to wear it and those who know how to design it. To make fashion you have to follow your instincts. I am attracted by colors. If I had to make an all-black collection tomorrow, I would try harder, I would go against my inclination, but I am a total-black fan. I admire the wearer. I am fascinated by those who express everything with just one color, but they are different from me, but I do not think I can emulate them. I have a softer approach in my private life with colors. You’re not always what you do. In my world, the fashion that I do, I am an omnivorous person. In any case, I love it deeply.
Could you describe your home to our readers?
My home is currently in Rome. It is located in a 17th century building near Piazza Navona, very beautiful, very large, with a very old structure with old doors. It is very Roman, very Italian: I respected it. It would not have sense otherwise; the rooms are beautiful for as you see them. Before making it my own, I wanted to keep this light soft: no bright colors, no light, no prevailing. The atmosphere wins on the single object, never bright color, balance, half tones and nothing takes over the rest. It has many objects, it is full. I am a collector of nothing and everything. I love to buy things that affect me, objects of art, everything that represents me is put in my own way, it is a place where I live very well.
There is a bit of a mess too, I do not like aseptic design environments. I like when different signs of lives lived mix up in same place: books, plates, glasses and more. It is a bit like in my work: things are put where I wanted to put them and in the middle there is me.
Vogue – Marco de Vincenzo FW18 Ready to Wear
What makes you happy?
The ability to express myself. When I think of a situation more distressed than mine, what scares me is the opportunity to express myself. It makes me happy to be able to do it. This is the greatest fortune in life: sharing, expressing, not being afraid. Many creative people are afraid of judgment and keep everything inside. It makes me happy to have found this balance. I’m not afraid of judgment.
How much does your culture influence your artistic vision?
It influences a lot. There are two cultural levels: one is what you are attracted to and therefore you do not get yourself you are inclined to read at six. For example, if you were born in the eighties you were a television addict, at the time it was the prevailing culture. I am half of a person formed with culture induced by television and then I met the people who took to write or take care of art and I made them come into my life, and I gave them the opportunity to let them enter my life. Culture is one where you are born of the right by the family and the other is one that life gives you. If you let somebody different than you enter in your life and you struggle more than usual, this is not innate but, at the end of the day, it is my conquest. Life is full of these fundamental encounters: as a child I used to listen to pop, then came my friend who was listening to Guccini and I was attracted to him. I started to make it mine. It is important not to follow only the culture you come from.
Do not stop; study, continue to study, even when you do not go to school. You cannot know everything. The important thing is to get more and more things into your life, more and more and to incorporate them into your life. I am super pop for the kind of adolescence and childhood that I had, and on the other hand I am very intellectual for acquisition.
Lorenzo Sabatini
Born in Colombia, raised in Tuscany. He graduated in Literature and Philosophy in Florence. After graduating, he took part at TV Podcast "Italian Star Project", a docu-reality about fashion in Rome. He has worked in various press offices and in a contemporary art gallery between Milan and Saint Tropez. He currently collaborates with ODDA, Elle.it, and some independent magazines.
Lorenzo Sabatini
Born in Colombia, raised in Tuscany. He graduated in Literature and Philosophy in Florence. After graduating, he took part at TV Podcast "Italian Star Project", a docu-reality about fashion in Rome. He has worked in various press offices and in a contemporary art gallery between Milan and Saint Tropez. He currently collaborates with ODDA, Elle.it, and some independent magazines.
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